‘Beer on the dining table? How déclassé. The correct way is to dine with wine.’
Anyone who holds that opinion is one or more of the following:
- Public relations director for the wine industry.
- A person who does not realise beer can be served in elegant glassware not just pint glasses.
- Someone who is unaware beer is the most diverse of all alcoholic drinks and has ample tools for matching with food.
A Plethora Of Flavours, Tastes, And Textures
Beer has a plethora of flavours, tastes, and textures. It goes with all cuisines, and all items on the menu whether vegan, vegetarian, fish, or meat, from breakfast to post-dinner dessert.
When considering a successful food and wine pairing then acidity, tannins, sweetness, and body are the matching tools. Beer has all those too, and, depending on style, it has bitterness, umami, sourness and even salt. It is mostly composed of water (refreshing) and contains carbonation in varying degrees from gentle through to moussey, effervescent, and prickly. Combined, all these properties give beer an advantage over other beverages when dining. Why?
Malt: Contains tannins, acidity, sweetness, and a range of flavours to complement the food.
Hops: Contain acids, tannins, aroma and flavour. Depending on the variety, they also bestow bitterness and that is refreshing and maybe a contrast to other tastes in the meal thereby creating a balance of flavours.
Acidity: Refreshing and balances rich flavours. It cuts through texture and cleanses the palate. Hops contain acids, sour beers contain acidic tasting microflora. Carbon Dioxide creates acidity through carbonic acid giving beer a refreshing ‘bite’.
Tannins: Compounds derived from plant material. With beer they come from cereals and hops. Tannins add texture and structure to beer. Their ability to attract fats and proteins and separate them means they cut through the texture of dense or fatty food and refresh the mouth.
Carbon Dioxide: A by-product of fermentation dissolved in the beer. Beer is also frequently additionally carbonated. CO2 cuts through texture and scrubs the palate.
A Bitter Aperitif
Before we start our meal we need a bitter aperitif. A gin & tonic would be good but I suggest instead choosing West Coast Pale Ale, served in a wine glass. When the tongue senses bitterness the hormone gastrin is released and starts digestive operations. Enzymes in saliva convert starches into easily digestible carbohydrates. A message is sent to the stomach where hydrochloric acid is secreted to break down the soon-to-arrive comestibles. The small intestine prompts the liver to produce bile and the gall bladder to manage bile excretion. Bile assists the liver in breaking down fats and ridding the body of waste products. Inside the pancreas insulin is produced to regulate blood sugar. Bitter ale prompted this cascade of digestive processes. A plateful of rocket would have the same effect, but beer is more fun!
Beer At A State Banquet?
If only beer was served at swish dinners then the opinion of wine being the only appropriate drink for dining would immediately change. Imagine eating this feast from a state banquet hosted by Queen Elizabeth II for the French president. Wine was served at the real dinner, but in our imaginary collation we drink beer instead.
- Paupiette de Sole et Gresson, sauce Nantua (sole with crayfish sauce) with Belgian Wit beer. The beer has a creamy texture and a subtle citrus note that complements the delicate texture and flavour of the fish.
- Agneau de la Nouvelle Saison de Windsor au Basilic (new Windsor lamb) with oak aged Barley Wine. The caramel flavour in the beer harmonises with the sweetness educed by roasting the meat and the tannins and carbonation cut through the texture.
- Charlotte à la Vanille et Cerises Griottes (creamy cherry dessert) with Kriek. The beer contains sour cherries and is a complement for the dessert and with its refreshing acidity it cuts through the richness and creamy texture.
The Default Choice
Historically in Britain, ale (without hops) and later beer (with hops) were staples consumed with every meal although there was no concept of pairing with specific dishes. In the Victorian era beer was stocked in most English restaurants and it was customary for diners to order a glass with their meal. Even into the early 20th century it was so common to have beer with a repast that breweries delivered small casks of lowish alcohol Dinner Ale to private homes for the family to drink at mealtimes.
Arguably the best-known beer pairing is oysters with Porter or dark Stout. It’s hard to believe now oysters are a status dish that until the end of the 19th century they were inexpensive street food. If the Victorians had chosen beers to go with their meals they could have looked forward to a bill of fayre like this. London Particular (pea soup) served with light Mild – the beer has low bitterness and a malty base enhanced by the ham hock in the soup; Steak & kidney pudding with Bitter – the beer is well hopped to cut through the texture but has a sweet malty base which contrasts with the savoury meat; Spotted Dick with Old Ale – the dried fruit flavours of both pudding and beer are complementary.
Beer And Cheese – Destined To Be Together
If ever a libation and foodstuff were destined to be together it is beer and cheese. Some matches are transformative – try a funky and salty blue Stilton with Imperial Russian Stout and its massive treacle, coffee and liquorice flavours; soft earthy Brie with a bone-dry Saison, its acidity cutting through the unctuous texture; tangy goat’s cheese with a creamy Weizen, or the mouth-watering umami of Lincolnshire Poacher with the Dundee fruit cake character of an aged Barley Wine.
Guidelines for Beer & Food Matching
While there are no strict rules with pairing there are guidelines and tips.
Flavour intensity: Pair the beer with the flavour intensity of the food. Game is highly flavoured and needs a big beast like Dopplebock to match whereas that same beer would overwhelm poached cod.
Texture: Think about the texture of the food when choosing the beer, for instance a light Helles lager would match with salad or sushi rather than a hefty tripel Abbey beer.
Colour. If in doubt match the colour of the beer to the food, e.g. grilled chicken with Golden Ale. Using colour as a guide works with wine and often does too with beer.
Bitter foods: Taste more intense with bitter beers. Choose a beer sweeter than the food.
Spicy foods: Avoid bitter flavoured beers because they increase spiciness.
Sweet foods: They work best with bitter and/or roasted flavours in beer as a contrast.
Main Part of the Dish: Partner the beer with the main part of the dish rather than the accompaniments unless it is a curry in which case think about the piquancy of the sauce. Sunday roast has many elements, so ignore the peas when choosing the beer, pair instead with the meat/nut loaf. A malty Scotch Ale would be complementary.
Cooking Method. Whether it is steamed, fried, grilled or roasted affects flavour and texture. A marvellous complementary match is smoked beer with smoked fish.
Alcohol is a flavour enhancer. Higher alcohol beers will intensify flavours in the food and can unbalance it. Spicy dishes are spicier with high alcohol.
Saltiness. Increases bitterness in beer. Sweeter beers are better with salt because they contrast.
Mantra
Co-ordinate: Match the texture and density of food with the beer.
Cut: Choose a beer to cut through texture, richness and reveal the flavours.
Complement: Choose a beer to complement the food flavours.
Contrast: Choose a beer with flavours that contrast the food.
An Elegant Glass
Whether casual or fine dining there is a beer to match and what fun it is to experiment. Just remember to BANISH THE ENGLISH PINT GLASS! It’s a bucket that has no place on the dining table, even with casual food, so leave it at the bar. The shape of that pint glass does nothing to enhance the beer inside it. Because of its wide neck all the aromas dissipate, and the beer is sluiced to the back of the mouth before the olfactory cells or taste buds can appreciate all its nuances. Snifters, tulips, and wine glasses look more elegant.
So next time you dine say goodbye to wine and hello to beer because to paraphrase William Shakespeare in The Winter’s Tale, ‘a quart of ale is a dish for a king and a queen’.
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If you want to learn more about beer how about downloading the School of Booze online beer courses UK. Link here.
And for the best books to learn about wine and beer and cider, take a look at Jane Peyton’s Knowledge Box series.
